First Fasted Ultra Trail Race

The Green Power Hike

This next race in my Carnivore journey was slightly impromptu and probably some what haphazardly executed but it was quite a breakthrough for me both mentally and physically.

The race was the annual Green Power Hike. A 50 km ‘hike-a-thon’ on the well trodden Hong Kong Trail. It is moderately hilly, for Hong Kong standards, with an elevation gain of 1,280 m. I have done this race many times before and I seemed to get progressively slower every year. Last year I had signed up for it but then broke a toe less than 2 months before the race so that didn’t happen.

This year, all was good and I was properly into my carnivore way of life so I felt confident and excited about the race. I felt in good condition having done the UTMB Trans Lantau in November and have had a restful build up to this race in January.

During the days before race day I was trying to figure out my fueling plan. I was quite excited about the race but at the same time a bit blase about it too. My mind was not 100% in racing mode. I was still in mourning after losing my mother the day after the Trans Lantau, so I guess it was muting my usual enthusiasm for race day. In fact, if I hadn’t already signed up for it before my mother passed, I probably would not have done it at all.

On the day before the race, I suddenly decided to do the race fasted. I think I was just in some weird place mentally. Part of the grieving process perhaps? I felt confident about it and was pretty confident of my fat adapted body. I had already done many fasted hikes which lasted sometimes 6-7 hours. It was time to try it out on a race.

My sleep was reasonable. I woke up around 1 am and couldn’t sleep so I listened to a carnivore podcast and was able to fall asleep again till 5 am. 

I got up then for a quick shower and then dressed. Went downstairs to finish getting ready. No breakfast, just coffee.

There was slight drama finding a toilet in time since we had a long drive to the start, but all good to go after finally finding it. Feeling all light and happy…TMI I know, I was impatient to get going. It was super cold that morning, 5 degrees Celsius with icy wind so we had to wait indoors till nearer to the start. I had my layers on and knew I would have to start peeling them off later and was annoyed that that would cost time along the way but I was too cold to strip off before I had the chance to warm up.

Finally went to stand at the start and I notice a couple of expat ladies who looked about my age. I spoke to one who was a lot braver than me with only a tank top and shorts on. Quite the contrary of her, I had on a running shirt with a long sleeve merino over that and a wind breaker on top plus my running gloves!

‘You’re so brave!’ I said shivering. She looked cold too but she said, ‘Freezing! But I know I will get hot as soon as we start’. She was indeed smart but I was still glad to be feeling more protected against the icy cold wind at that point while we waited for the last few grueling minutes till the countdown.

The start was relaxed and I just went with my feeling.  I had decided to really try to watch my heart rate this time and keep it where I was breathing easy and comfortable. This race has always been a challenge for me to pace. We start from one of the highest points on the island and run down hills and flats for a good 10 km or so. It is a very fast start and so easy to get caught up with the fast pace of the other participants. I knew at one point I was still going too fast but I felt good and controlled. I did let a lot of the other eager racers pass and tried not to let myself worry about chasing anyone.

Flowing along nicely with more downs and flat trails all was going well till just after the first check point. I did make some major mistake here with my hydration. For some reason, maybe because it was so cold at the start, I neglected to refill any of my bottles at the first check point. I realised my huge mistake when I starting to feel some cramping in my lower legs. Luckily there was a mini support stop before the halfway mark so I was able till up my bottles and gulp down the much needed water and refill both bottles. I used one empty bottle to fill up with half water and Pocari sports drink which they supplied (full of sugar, ugh!) to swish around my mouth without drinking it hoping it would tell my brain that all was good (I read this tip somewhere online). It did seem to work for a while anyway. I discreetly as possible spat that out and didn’t drink any at that point but my legs were starting to feel heavy and I was aware that I should be taking some salts as the day was getting somewhat warmer. I usually carry some salt tabs with me but for some reason I had completely forgot. My head was really not in the game. I was quite angry with myself then.

I got myself to the half way check point and got some more Pocari and filled one bottle. On hind sight I should have taken my smallest bottle for the Pocari pick up and left the two front bladders for just water. As I was filling up, a racing couple that I know called out my name and said I was making good time. I thought they were just being encouraging and supportive so smiled and said thanks. I only found out later that I had hit a PB for the first half of the course.

After I headed off again, I got caught at the back of the 25 km distance hikers who just started before I arrived! There was a bottle neck up a trail from this section and it was very frustrating since I got caught at the end of the group with all the hikers and walkers. I pushed passed when I was able to but was aware that I was also annoying a lot of people, trying to somewhat politely pass them. I know they were not aware that I was part of the 50 km race and not an over eager competitor in theirs.

This next section was much hillier and had a few big climbs. The trail was also mostly exposed and the temperature was appreciatively building up. I was feeling quite strong as I left the majority of the slow hikers plodding up the hill behind and was able to get more momentum in my stride. At this point feeling good, I suddenly realised I was running out of water again! This was a disaster. I hadn’t needed any food but I should have been more careful with my hydration. So disappointed with myself for not calculating how much water I would need regardless of the cool temperatures at the start. Thankfully, careful not to drink too fast, I made it to the the next check point and filled up fully there. One bottle probably still had a small amount of Pocari in it but it was well diluted. I decided that I didn’t need the sugar in it but the electrolytes were a must.

I powered on along the catch water which is a undulating, fairly flat and narrow concrete path which went on and on for about 8 km. Being able to run this mundane section is so important since this is where you can make up time. It was an easy and steady pace but I managed to run the whole thing with enough energy left to climb out of it and to then to head up an unending set of stairs before the trail head for the last hilly section of Dragons Back. The fatigue started to set in at this point but I managed the stairs in a good steady pace and crossed the road to the last check point and filled up again to make sure, this time I had enough water to get me to the finish line.

Dragon’s back is a popular hiking trail with stunning views of all the beautiful beaches on the south side of Hong Kong Island and it a very popular hike for families and groups. The trail goes up and down along a chain of hills resembling the back of a Dragon, hence it’s name.

Unfortunately for the racers doing my pace, we end up there just after lunch so it is full of day trippers. Weaving in and around the groups of leisurely hikers is quite a challenge on the narrow dirt trail but it has to be done. I did appreciate that it was a stunning day with such stunning views, so I did not blame them for blocking my way and enjoying their weekend here.

I finally did the ascent and headed down onto a flatter contour trail for another 5 km or so. The last 2 km is a very tricky, rough downhill trail with lots of roots, random pipes and rocks which I felt well enough to run down. I was at 6 hours 38 minutes when I started the decent and was wondering if I will make it in under 7 hours. Without too much thought, I just went for it. I left my fear of tripping behind as my ketone fueled brain started buzzing, feeling super charged because I also knew I was nearly done. I must have done that section in 12 min! I crossed the finish line at 6 hours 51 minutes.

My last race 2 years ago was over 8 hours. Although the conditions were a lot more challenging than this year I was so close to my personal best of 6 hours 21 minutes which I had run over 20 years ago!

My husband, son, his partner and a few of my friends who had run the 25 km race were there waiting at the finish line. It’s always so nice to have a cheering crowd to see you finish. I was very happy with my time as well as humbled by lessons learned with regards to my carelessness about my hydration. There is always a lesson in every race.

It was also very exciting to know that I was able to complete a tough mountain ultra fasted. Well, mostly fasted anyway it you disregard the small amount of Pocari I had to have to supplement my electrolytes.  Next time I need to take my own! Even if it’s so cold!! What was I thinking…. I guess I just wasn’t thinking.

After the race I changed and freshened up at the rest rooms on the beach. It was always a pleasure to finish here in this tiny sleepy village by one of the most stunning beaches on Hong Kong island. We had lunch at the local Chinese restaurant, packed full on a weekend, where I ordered a rice dish with beef brisket and a fried egg. It tasted so good and I felt no guilt since I knew I deserved the carbs after this race. My stomach complained afterwards though, not surprisingly, but it was well worth it.

I started stiffening up a bit after the carb heavy meal and I was still feeling slightly giddy but I think it was just all the adrenaline flowing around my body.

The ride home was great and I felt good with no other discomforts. At home I had a wonderful hot shower and tried to eat some more but appetite was not there yet. This always seems the case right after a hard race for me. The feeding frenzy usually starts the next day.

I was very sleepy by 9 pm so I went to bed but woke up a few hours later thinking of food so I went downstairs and made some bacon and egg at 1 am in the middle of the night. Finally felt fed and satisfied and managed to get back to sleep till the morning.

Although I woke up the next day with just a bit of general stiffness, and fatigue, I felt quite light and happy again noticing the heaviness that I had been carrying since my mother passing had finally lifted.

My ‘grief blanket’ as my sister called was no longer needed.




One response to “First Fasted Ultra Trail Race”

  1. Awesome run! So close to a PB set 20 years ago – and with no carbs! 💪🏃🏾‍♀️👍

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